Need a cure for those post Mardi Gras
blues? Well then I can recommend nothing better than Saint Patrick's
Day in New Orleans. The days immediately after Mardi Gras are always
a little blue. The Lenten season has begun (always a bit of a downer)
and after several weeks of almost nonstop celebration one inevitably
feels a little depressed. But just when you think things are as dull
and dreary as can be its St. Patrick’s Day!
Saint Patrick's Day celebrations in New Orleans consist
of a mostly local crowd, and unlike other cities, New Orleans' St. Patrick's
Day celebrations do not have the hooligans and violence that seem so
prevalent in other cities. The citizens of New Orleans learn from an
early age how to conduct themselves at these public events. The only
time I have ever seen anyone engaged in a fight during any celebration
in New Orleans has involved tourists that don't know how to act right.
There are two big parades for St. Patrick's Day in
New Orleans. One goes up St. Charles Avenue and the other begins and
ends at Molly's on the Market in the French Quarter. The uptown parade
is family oriented with almost endless walking clubs and floats. Traditionally
the walking clubs are made up of the men of New Orleans who are of Irish
heritage or those with the honorary title for the day. As they stroll
(or stagger, depending on how early they started to celebrate) up St.
Charles Avenue they hand out roses, carnations, and lilies to the ladies
along the parade route in exchange for kisses. Behind the walking clubs
are the parade floats with riders who toss an assortment of beads, cups,
cabbages, carrots, potatoes, and most importantly, MOONPIES to the crowd.
The Molly's parade occurs in the evening and is a very
raucous, festive crowd of folks. In past years it was hosted by the
owner of Molly's, Jim Monahan, and now by his son. The parade begins
with the Storyville Stompers brass band playing as the parade starts
its winding path through the French Quarter. After the parade dignitaries
and local celebrities pass by, anyone can fall in behind the procession
and second line through the Quarter. By the time the parade returns
to Mollys (about an hour to two later) it is not quite the highly organized
and timed entity it started out as. In fact the only way one can usually
tell that the parade has ended is when the Stompers arrive back at the
bar, knock back a few and then start playing again on Decatur Street.
Molly's remains my favorite bar in New Orleans. Many
an afternoon has been spent (but not wasted) sitting in the window facing
Decatur street, watching the tourists crowd into Margaritaville, or
the local residents trying to mind their own business as they go about
their day, gutter punks looking for spare change or a butt, and hipsters
working hard to impress each other. At the bar, one can usually find
any number of local news people, politicians, artists, writers, ner-do-wells
etc. hanging out. Most importantly Molly's has one of the best jukeboxes
in town. If Etta James or Dinah Washington is playing on the jukebox,
it'll be all right baby.